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Beekeeper Costume

How to Choose a Beekeeper Costume

At the point when we chose to become beekeepers, the principal buys we made were honey bee suits for every one of us. They merit each penny we spent in certainty, genuine feelings of serenity, and decreasing the quantity of stings we may have gotten.

The basic five pieces you need to have in a beekeeping suit are a cap, a cover, a coat or full body suit, gloves, and foot gear.

Each beekeeper has a sentiment on every one of these things, so continue perusing to discover more.

Try not to Lose Your Head – Wear A Hat and Veil

This is the most significant aspect of your honey bee gear. Nobody needs to be stung all over or head.

Have you seen those senseless recordings of individuals going around, fiercely slapping at honey bees? I did that.

One day when we were strolling through the honey bee yard, a bustling working drone flew into my hair and stalled out by my ear. In spite of being quiet while tending our honey bees when I’m in a honey bee suit, this humming in my ear sent me going around the yard like a neurotic, whacking at my hair. You would prefer not to do that when you’re working your hives.

Acting panicky around the honey bees isn’t beneficial for you and it’s upsetting to your honey bees.

There are a few sorts of headgear for beekeepers.

  • Caps and cloak that are two separate pieces
  • Caps and cloak that are joined
  • Caps and cloak hurdled to your suit
  • Caps and cloak separate from your suit or coat
  • Also, there are various styles of shroud

The central issues for a cap and cover are that you need great perceivability, you don’t need any openings that honey bees can discover, and you don’t need the work of the shroud truly near your face.

We suggest you get a cap and cloak that are of one piece and they join to your suit or coat. Parts won’t get isolated and on the off chance that you are sped up appropriately, there is a bad situation for honey bees to sneak in coincidentally.

The kinds of cap and cloak mix that are joined and connect to a suit are commonly the fencer sort of hood and the round cap and cover.

We favor the round cap and cover mix since it gives the best perceivability, is agreeable, and the edge will hinder the sun. The main downside to this sort is that it can slide around on your head and tip a piece on the off chance that you recline (watching a multitude) or lean path over forward. Handily dealt with on the off chance that you self locking pin a jawline tie of flexible inside your hood. This likewise is extraordinary for shielding long wanderer hair from blowing before your face while you’re equipped.

How Cool Do You Want To Look – The Suit

In the event that you need to be upscale, beekeeping gear isn’t the best approach. In case you will bee sanctuaries, style vacates the premises, in spite of the fact that I think we look particularly running in our honey bee coats and round caps and shroud.

Decisions – suit, coat, or separate hood and a hefty shirt. We suggest that all your honey bee gear zips together, so a suit and hood or coat and hood mix is ideal.

A full honey bee suit has some particular focal points. It gives you one-piece inclusion and keeps your customary garments clean.

A coat is slightly simpler to put on than a full suit. A coat that speeds up is simpler to get in and out of than the ones that pull over the head.

On the off chance that you get it a size or two bigger than you generally wear, it will be free in summer and will fit over a hefty coat in nippy months. I ordinarily wear a ladies’ little size, yet I have a huge size beekeeping coat. It works fine and isn’t excessively massive.

Honey bee dress is made of an assortment of cotton and cotton mixes of light to heavyweight. A few suits and coats are ventilated.

We like 100% cotton of a medium weight. That functions admirably all year for us in the Pacific Northwest. Most summers here are moderate. At the point when we get a hot spell, our coach resorts to splashing down her honey bee coat with the nursery hose in the event that she gets overheated.

Your atmosphere will decide whether you need light weight and vented or not.

Most beekeeper dress is white in shading. Honey bees don’t appear to mind large white monsters meddling with their hives. It is said that they can get more forceful with dark and dim hues.

The Great Glove Controversy

Continuously wear gloves. Never wear gloves.

Beekeepers appear to be more inflexible in their perspectives on gloves than for some other aspect of their honey bee dress.

Our inclination is this. New beekeepers will feel more sure with gloves. A certain beekeeper is calmer and gentler working with their honey bees.

We wear gloves most of the time. Contingent upon the season and the disposition of our honey bees, we may investigate the young ladies without gloves. We generally wear them for a full hive review.

We have utilized two fundamental kinds of gloves:

  • Cowhide
  • Dishwashing gloves or nitrile gloves

By and large, we incline toward the accuracy and finesse we have when utilizing the nitrile gloves. In any case, I have been stung through them when I got an edge and crushed a honey bee under my fingers. Dishwashing gloves are comparable for finesse yet are somewhat sturdier.

We moved to cowhide gloves for quite a bit of our work when we got two nucs with “Survivor Queens” that had a weighty Russian honey bee foundation. These honey bees are what we call “hot”, for the most part more forceful than our Italians or Carniolan honey bees.

As you acquire understanding, you’ll structure your own suppositions on whether to wear gloves and which type you like.

Try not to Wear Sandals

Since you have gotten prepared, remember your feet. This ought to be self-evident.

One summer a couple of potential new beekeepers went to the house to assist us with checking our hives. We had cover, coats and gloves for them to wear, however we were unable to assist them with the remainder of their garments. One was wearing edited jeans and the two of them wore shoes. Honey bees don’t stop at your knees!

Regardless of the climate, I for the most part wear boots with my jeans outwardly. On the off chance that you let your jeans remain outwardly, you hazard having a honey bee slither up under your jeans. In the event that you work generally from the side and back of your hives, you shouldn’t have numerous honey bees at ground level, so you are most likely protected.

To be additional sheltered you can fold your jeans into your boots or fold a versatile over your trouser leg as bike riders do.

The Bottom Line

You will discover what works best for you, yet you’ll accelerate the cycle on the off chance that you can take a stab at caps, cloak, honey bee suits and gloves before you purchase. Coaches and honey bee club individuals frequently are glad to take a gander at or take a stab at their rigging. You should definitely check of the best beekeeping suits reviews.

Our tutor had saves for us to utilize when we assisted with her hives. We purchased what we utilized there and have been cheerful from that point onward.

Cautioning – When a Bee Suit Won’t Work

There are multiple times when your honey bee gear won’t work. I’m not talking assault of Africanized honey bees, I’m looking at during ordinary beekeeping exercises.

  1. At the point when you don’t wear it. You may discover pardons: it takes to long to equip; it’s excessively hot out. Honey bee gear is a basic piece of beekeeping security for both you and the honey bees. Set aside the effort to put it on.
  2. At the point when you put on your rigging however don’t set aside the effort to watch that it’s flashed up appropriately. Mike has been easygoing about zooming up appropriately two or multiple times and has ended up with honey bees humming around within his cloak. Terrible!
  3. In the event that a honey bee stings your suit or on the off chance that you get nectar on it, you will be a magnet for different honey bees. The sting will have the young ladies in protection mode and the nectar will have honey bees rushing to the new chow line. Utilizing the honey bee smoker on yourself or resigning for some time to do a speedy wash of the territory can help.

Related Questions

Would you be able to get stung through a honey bee suit?

Indeed, you can get stung through your suit if it’s cozy against your exposed skin, yet in the event that you have a free suit, it’s improbable. I have been stung through Levi Levis, so a standard weighty texture isn’t sting-evidence.

Shouldn’t something be said about a honey bee suit for kids?

A full body suit is the thing that you need to purchase for youngsters who are helping in the honey bee yard. It’s an awesome chance to let them see the miracle of honey bees and the delights of beekeeping. A full body suit will keep them sheltered and sure when they are around your honey bees.

Do beekeepers get stung a ton?

I have a sense of security in saying that beekeepers most likely get stung more than non-beekeepers. This is an interesting point in the event that you are oversensitive to honey bee stings. On the off chance that you are hypersensitive and a relative has honey bees in the yard, an EpiPen is something you ought to have close by. We additionally have Caution Beehives signs posted going back and forth and doors to our yard.

Feeding Bees in Winter

Feeding Bees in Winter: Rules and Features

Rules and features of bee feeding

In order for each bee colony to be capable of normal life, and the yield of beekeeping products was high, the bees must receive the amount of nutrients they need. Beekeepers claim that in order to avoid pathologies in the development of bees, the following requirements must be observed:

  • spring bribe, thanks to which favorable conditions are created in bee colonies for the development of stronger and more viable individuals;
  • the main bribe, which should be long and voluminous and used to the maximum by bees to obtain beekeeping products;
  • autumn bribe aimed at developing the strength of the family.

However, for many beekeepers, this is where the problems begin. Firstly, there is not always enough food, and secondly, it is not always possible to find places that will provide bee bribes. Experts say that in practice, the spring bribe is usually interrupted for a long time, and the autumn one is absent altogether, which makes preparation for the main bribe rather difficult.

However, a number of measures will make it possible to correct the situation, for example, by migrating, increasing the number of bribes, adding additional fertilizing for the winter period. All this will contribute to an increase in the yield of marketable products. You should also carefully consider the choice of an apiary: carefully examine the area, evaluate its food supply. Of course, the stability of the natural food base is due to many factors: climatic and weather conditions.

Paying attention to the fact that weather conditions in spring are not entirely stable with characteristic temperature changes and frequent precipitation, experienced beekeepers use artificial feeding methods, as they know: with a lack of feed in spring, one cannot expect normal development and reproduction of bees, and, most importantly, nutrition in winter. This can lead to the fact that the wintering will end badly, because in this case only small families with a large number of old bees will survive it. In addition, the uterus can give spring offspring only if it is properly fed, preferably with the addition of honey products or sugar syrup. But when there are no bribes, such feeding causes the bees to be active, so it is important to ensure that all families are healthy, and that bees in neighboring apiaries would not be carriers of infectious diseases. This allows you to get strong individuals and in the spring to breed the maximum possible number of bees.

What is the best food?

In view of all this, it is very important to regulate the amount of food in the hive, not only during a lack of natural food, but also during feeding, to supply the bees with winter food. Sometimes they resort to feeding bees for some specific purpose, for example, to breed queens or in order to understand which individuals or families are receiving insufficient feed.

The most popular bee food consists of honey and bee, which includes all the necessary nutrients, thus, it is Candypal, which has all the qualities necessary for feeding larvae, worker bees and drones. It ensures optimal vital functions of bees, the formation of honey-containing products, energy of bees. In the autumn-winter period, it is recommended to feed the bees with honey, since during this period the bees do not work and there is no brood. Honey supports vital processes and the creation of valuable food products. Honey contains a lot of carbohydrates and is a source of minerals.

In spring, brood appears, wax is released and combs are built, bees begin to collect nectar. At this time, it is necessary to add bee bread to the feed, since it is the bees fed with bee bread that normally secrete wax, feed the larvae, and have enough energy for the bees to work in the family. Perga is an organic protein-fat feed containing many minerals and vitamins. The lack of honey is compensated by feeding in the form of sugar syrup. The deficit of bee bread is not compensated by anything. And although scientists tried to find analogues of pollen and bee bread, their attempts did not lead to anything. That is why it is very important for Russian beekeepers to have at least a certain amount of bee bread in stock: in our climatic conditions, bees receive a small pollen bribe. If the farmer has bee bread, then if there is a lack of it in the diet of bees, he can simply add it to the top dressing. Also, sometimes milk is used for feeding, which also cannot be replaced by any other substance.

Feeding bees outside

The food supply of the bee colony must be monitored throughout the season and especially in early autumn, because the amount of honey produced increases during this time.
Constant feeding throughout the year is not required for bees.If the weather conditions are unfavorable, then in this case you can feed the hives. Beehives must be prepared for wintering. But if bees in adverse conditions consume all the honey, then this is a net loss for the beekeeper. Therefore, it is very important to calculate costs and profits in order to understand in time that the work is at a loss, and, therefore, something needs to be changed.
The difficulty of feeding bees on the street is that the bees, however, fly out of the hive, can get sick and die. Therefore, to provide them with more energy, you need to feed the bees with sugar syrup. Bees need to be prepared for feeding in advance so as not to disturb insects, which undoubtedly affects their safety.

Winter feeding is necessary for bees in order for them to produce normal, viable offspring and to produce products that are widely used by people for various purposes. Since bees need food that would provide them with energy expenditure for life, but at the same time would not burden their digestion, it should be easily broken down and give a lot of energy at the same time. Such food is honey. Therefore, it is recommended to feed the bees with honey in winter.

How to feed bees in winter: expert advice

The preparation of bees for the period of low temperatures begins earlier than the first frost hits, and even before the cold snap sets in. Usually, the preparation of the apiary for wintering begins in August-September.

For the most favorable wintering in each bee house, as a rule, up to 9-10 kilograms of honey is left. At the same time, about 6-7 kilograms are used for insect nutrition, the rest is for storage, since honey is the main resource from which bees draw strength for life, in fact, being carbohydrate, and therefore easily decomposed and giving a large amount of energy. Some beekeepers even recommend increasing the amount stored for the winter up to 15 kilograms: the more feed, the better the wintering, but it is important not to “go over”.

The honey dressing should be placed in a special way:

  • lie in plates;
  • the location should not prevent insects from moving;
  • honey should not obstruct the passage of air, reduce its circulation;
  • the middle part of the hive should not be filled with honey;
  • you should place top dressing in the upper part of the hive, at its walls;
  • insects should be free to move around the hive;
  • there should be free space above the frames.

If natural honey is not enough, you should feed from August. You can feed insects with sugar syrup that you have prepared yourself. The syrup should be prepared at the rate of one kilogram of sugar per one and a half liters of water. The water is brought to a boil, and then sugar is evenly poured into it. When the mixture is completely cool, the syrup can be fed as a top dressing. Its daily dose should be no more than two hundred to three hundred grams per bee house. This syrup is usually processed by old bees that die off during the winter.

Nests for wintering should be prepared by September. If the bees are still lacking food, it is recommended to feed them a more concentrated syrup. For this syrup, you need to dissolve two and a half kilograms of sugar in two liters of water. Top dressing should be done in large quantities: one portion can contain up to three liters. This is done in order to fill the cells faster.

In a situation where there is enough feed, and the nectar is no longer available, the queen bee no longer lays eggs. With proper feeding, wintering will have a good effect on the young and new generation, since young insects will not spend much effort to nurture the new generation.

Winter dressing should include either honey or very low strength sugar syrup. It needs to be produced regularly, but in small quantities, only 15-30 grams per serving.

At the end of wintering, it is necessary to feed the bees in a certain way. To do this, you need a frame with honeycombs, which are filled with heated sugar syrup mixed with honey (or just honey). In such a frame with standard dimensions, you can fit about one kilogram of food. Before feeding, empty combs are removed from the hive, and those filled with nutritious feed are placed, then all this is covered with a heater.

Preparing Bees for Wintering

Preparing Bees for Wintering

The main task of beekeepers in the autumn-winter period is to ensure that the bees spend the winter with the least expenditure of honey and come out energetic and healthy by the spring. Bees in winter are in an inactive state, any disturbance worsens their position and the results of wintering. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare bees, hives and nests in such a way in the fall so that in winter they do not need to be disturbed by inspection, feeding, etc. What has not been done since autumn is already very difficult, and in many cases even impossible to do in winter. Correct and timely preparation of bees in the fall ensures good wintering and high productivity of the apiary. When preparing bees for winter, they are guided by the rule: it is better to make a mistake in the direction of increasing feed reserves than not to add them or leave them just barely enough.

The summer is over. It became noticeably cool. Grasses faded, a leaf of birches and lindens turned green, breathed in autumn. In the morning and by the end of the day, the entrance is empty. Only on warm, fine days does the apiary come to life, and then for a short while. Rarely do you see bees on stingy autumn flowers. The queen bees have already stopped sowing eggs, but there is still printed brood in the nests, the last generation of bees is ripening. There are more bees around the brood.At this time, they begin the final preparation of families for wintering. When forming nests in families, they remove low-honey, unfinished honeycomb frames, leaving them in the nests as much as the bees hatch them. If there is not enough food in the nests, then it is replenished by feeding the bees with sugar syrup. Sugar feeding of bees is finished no later than September 5-10. Winter stocks in families should be at least 20-25 kg of feed. Each honeycomb frame should have at least 1.5-2 kg of feed.

Do not forget about the treatment of bees against varroatosis. If the size of the winter nest matches the strength of the colony, it is easier for the bees to maintain the desired temperature inside the club. The heat from the surface of the club is radiated into a free space, unoccupied by bees. The larger it is, the more heat will be lost, the more food reserves will be consumed, the more water and CO2 will be released, the rectum will fill up faster, the club will loosen more often, the probability of crystallization of diarrhea in bees will increase, etc. Therefore, it is imperative to leave as many frames in the nests as the bees hatch them. Strong and medium-sized bee colonies are insulated only with upper pillows. Weak ones insulate from the sides. In this case, the pillow should not reach the bottom by 1-2 cm.

For a safe wintering, it is important not only to warm the hive, but also the condition of the entrance. The entrance hole is the only way of direct air exchange between the hive and the external environment. During a period of high activity, bees regulate the temperature and humidity in the hive, when the bees are in the club, the exchange takes place passively, due to the difference in temperature, pressure and spontaneous mixing of gases. Therefore, the entrances in winter should be open as wide as possible, regardless of how the hive roof is insulated. Beekeepers often avoid opening entrances in winter for fear of cold penetration. But a small tap hole becomes the cause of overmoistening of the air in the hive, which is undoubtedly much more harmful than the possible hypothermia of the hive in frosts. In the first half of winter, only the lower summer is opened, and then in the second half of wintering, by 1-2 cm2. the upper notch is also opened (for quick moisture removal). Warming of the hive, the size of the nest, the strength of the families, the fodder reserves, the sanitary condition of the apiary – these are the main indicators on which the course of wintering depends.

Bees can hibernate both in winter houses and outdoors. The advantage of hibernations: less consumption of feed stocks, hives last longer. The temperature in the winter house should be from 0 to +4 0С, air humidity 75-85%. Before you put the hives for the winter, you need to carry out deratization, airing the room. In the open air, we cannot influence the temperature and humidity of the air, but it is absolutely necessary to protect the hive from harsh winds. The hives can be closed from the wind with a film, ruberoid, or moved to a place protected from the wind. Strong winds quickly overcool the hive and can cause poor wintering for families, although families have been properly prepared. Caring for a well-prepared apiary for winter is not difficult.
From time to time, you should check whether the family is not worried about the branch knocking on the roof, whether rodents are getting close to the hive. If tits and woodpeckers are found nearby, the entrances should be covered with bars. A successful wintering is the foundation of all beekeeping. Until you have the confidence that all the families left for the winter will come out alive, vigorous, strong and healthy in the spring, until then all expenses, all sorts of tricks and hopes placed on the future will remain in the full sense of the word futile.

Honey

How Right Harvest Honey

Collecting honey is one of the most enjoyable, but at the same time laborious processes in beekeeping. The beekeeper receives a reward for the whole year in the form of a healthy treat. To collect a high-quality and tasty product, you should know how to pump honey correctly. Errors will turn into quick spoilage and acidification.

How to understand that honey is ripe and can be pumped

The main indicator of the maturity of honey is the sealed frames. At least one third of the cells must be closed. This product has better properties and does not deteriorate. Bees “seal” the honeycomb with wax when excess moisture comes out of the honey. Then it is ready for long-term storage.

If the summer flow is weak, insects do not seal the frame. It is also allowed to pump out honey from them, but maturity should be checked first. The product should not run out when turned to a horizontal position. It is enough to shake the frame several times or lightly tap it with your hand.

Preparing the framework for pumping

Before pumping out the honey, the caps are cut off from the sealed frames with special tools:

  • beekeeping knife sharpened on both sides;
  • a fork with many small teeth.

There are several types of inventory. The knife happens:

  • simple – does not differ from the kitchen, except for the sharpening method;
  • electric – heats up from the mains;
  • steam – has channels in the blade. Hot air enters them through a hose, which comes out of the steam generator.

The forks help to remove the seal from the deformed frames that cannot be cut with a knife. They differ in the shape of the teeth. There are:

  • straight;
  • rounded;
  • curved.

The latter are the most popular, because they remove the beading with a solid canvas.

Some beekeepers use a roller. They are held on the surface of the honeycomb, and small needles pierce the caps. But this method has disadvantages – the walls of the honeycomb are damaged, and a lot of wax gets into the honey.

Sometimes beekeepers additionally warm up the frames with a hairdryer. At the same time, the remnants of the caps melt, and the honey is pumped out better.

For your information! Hand tools are used in small apiaries (up to 20 hives). In large beekeeping farms, automatic machines are used to print honeycombs.

How to pump honey correctly and what frames are better to choose for pumping honey

During an active bribe, the sealed frames are regularly removed from the hive. Timely collection stimulates the bees to work. However, only ripe honey should be pumped out, which is at least a third sealed.

Store extensions are inspected in the evening. During the night, the insects will calm down, and in the morning they will be ready for work again. They are fumigated with a smoke so that they hide in the hive and do not interfere with the beekeeper. Suitable frames are taken away. Bees sitting on them are shaken off with a soft-bristled brush or a bunch of grass. Instead of sealed frames, they put dry and wax from the warehouse.

You don’t have to take all the honey from the hive. Bees should always have a supply of at least 10 kg. Then they feel calm and work actively.

Pumping honey using a honey extractor

There are two types of honey extractors:

  • radial;
  • chordial.

The first is a more modern type. In it, the cassettes are located along the radius of the circumference of the body. This design speeds up pumping because it allows you to work with a large number of frames at the same time.

In the second type, the cassettes are installed along the chords of the circumference of the main tank. A maximum of 4 frames can be placed in such a honey extractor. They must be turned over during operation in order to deflate from both sides.

Note! The day before, the honey extractor is disinfected and dried. To make the mechanism easier to rotate, it is periodically lubricated with oil.

It is better to pump out the hundredth honey immediately after collection. The hive is maintained at a temperature of 25-30 ° C, so it will be warm and flow out easily. In large apiaries, several people usually work:

  • two choose frames;
  • the third is engaged in honey extractor.
  • In this case, there are no problems with pumping. If there is only one beekeeper, then it is better to warm up the frames to working temperature first.

The room where honey will be pumped out should be:

  • clean to prevent dust from entering the product;
  • spacious – you will need to put empty frames in stores;
  • protected from bees – otherwise they will steal honey;
  • with running water – for washing hands during work.

The unsealing equipment is washed and dried in advance. If using a regular knife, hot water is required for heating.

The pumping procedure depends on the type of honey extractor. The most difficult to use are manual chordials. How honey is pumped out using such devices:

  • The frames are printed.
  • Install them in cassettes, evenly distributing the load. To prevent the honey extractor from vibrating, frames equal in weight are selected.
  • The centrifuge is spun slowly, gradually increasing the speed. If you rotate too fast, the honeycomb deforms, so there is no need to rush.
  • After pumping out half of the honey, the frames are turned over and the other side is continued to twist. Then this action is repeated again.
    If the honey extractor is radial and electric, then it is enough to correctly install the frames and turn on the device.

Honey is poured into a prepared bowl through a double sieve, which retains the wax. The smallest particles float up a couple of days after pumping. They are removed false from the surface of the honey.

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